If you wish to do the task right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and in fact see what's going on. When upon a time, this involved spending considerable cash. Now there are most likely half a lots out there that are eminently economical. Without a borescope, you're working blind.
Second, you have to get rid of copper fouling. Here is a list of what I use. J Dewey nylon-coated cleaning rods.
Take your spot rod, and put three solvent patches up the bore. When it does, follow with a dry spot.
(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. You will regret it.) If you see no copper, or simply a faint wash of copper occasionally, you're done. If you see gobs and gouts and swellings and streaks, it's back to the J-B.
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If you do not have a borescope, run a solvent repair the bore and let it sit, muzzle somewhat down, for a number of hours. Run another solvent patch through, and if it comes out clean, you're done, however if it has green or blue discolorations, back to the J-B.
Now, some basic notes. Some barrels copper-foul much worse than others. As a rule, the more you invest in a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will nasty. Every barrel fouls to one degree or another. Do burglary treatments work? I doubt it. I have actually had one or two cases where a barrel unexpectedly began to group as I reached the end of the process, but I've had much more burglaries that made no distinction at all.
They work, in some cases, but if you forget and leave the things in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore but excellent, and given that I'm at the age where I forget stuff, I hesitate to take the possibility. Also, they're hell on stock finishes. With a bolt-action, go easy on the Break-Free.
Take a hint from the military, whose lives depend on their guns going bang. They want them spotless. And immaculate is a great method to go.
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The actions to appropriately clean your rifle depend on whether you are doing a field removing or total disassembly. Due to the range of rifles, total disassembly of the firearm aren't within the scope of this short article.
Utilizing a cleansing tool, such as a utility brush or cleaning up swabs, and get rid of any loose particles that might be discovered within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber. Heavy fouling can be gotten rid of with a light application of cleaner and allowing it to sit for a few minutes prior to brushing.
One common myth is that more is much better when it comes to lubrication of your gun. You wish to adequately lubricate where needed, but excessive can cause extreme residues, which can cause breakdowns and dealing with problems (slippery). Lubing cloths are an excellent tool because they assist manage the amount of oil/lubrication being used in any given location of your weapon.
The treatment is easy. Soak a couple patches in this solvent and run them down the barrel. (Remember, keep your barrel secured or pointed down to prevent any solvent collecting near the actionsee Step 1.) Allow it to sit, and remember that getting rid of copper can take a while.
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If the spot comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Expense Buckley Note: There's a lot of talk about how these copper solvents can damage your bore.
What you don't want is to let any ammonia solvent dry out in there. When you're pleased that the copper is gone, run a couple of dry spots down the bore, followed by a couple of patches that have been wet with a regular cleaning solvent. Run 3 or 4 dry spots down the bore to get rid of any staying solvent.